Anuradhapura

Anuradhapura was the capital of Sri Lanka for about 1,400 years, from the fourth century BCE until it was abandoned in 1017 CE. That is a longer run than almost any city anywhere. What is left is a UNESCO World Heritage Site spread over roughly 40 square kilometres of scrub and tank-fed forest — and, unlike Polonnaruwa, it is still a working pilgrimage centre. You will share it with more Sri Lankans in white than with tourists.

What to see

The Sri Maha Bodhi is the heart of it: a sacred fig grown from a cutting of the tree the Buddha sat under, planted here in 288 BCE. It is the oldest tree in the world with a documented planting date, and it is still tended. Approach it as a shrine, because that is what it is.

Ruwanwelisaya is the great white stupa, restored and blindingly bright at midday. Jetavanaramaya, further east, is red brick and unrestored — when it was built in the third century it was among the tallest structures on earth, and standing at its base is the more affecting of the two experiences. Abhayagiri, to the north, was a monastery of five thousand monks and is the quietest quarter of the site. Isurumuniya, near the Tissa Wewa tank, has the carved lovers relief and is small enough to take in properly.

Getting around

The site is far too big to walk. A bicycle is the classic answer and the best one — the roads between the monuments are flat, shaded and quiet, and hiring one costs very little. A tuk-tuk for the day works if the heat is against you. Either way, plan a loop rather than doubling back.

Dress code applies at the sacred sites: shoulders and knees covered, shoes off at the stupa platforms. The stone gets extremely hot, so socks are not a bad idea.

When to go

Anuradhapura sits in the dry zone. Broadly it is good year-round, but the north-east monsoon brings rain from October to January, and the driest, clearest months are May to September. That makes it a useful counterpoint to the south coast, which is in monsoon over exactly that period.

Start early whatever the month. By eleven the open ground around the stupas is punishing.

Tickets

Entry to the archaeological site is USD 25 for foreign adults. The Sri Maha Bodhi charges a small separate fee. If you are also visiting Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya, price up the Cultural Triangle round ticket before buying singles.

How long, and where it fits

One full day. Anuradhapura is four hours from Colombo, an hour and a half from Sigiriya and about two and a half from Trincomalee, which makes it a natural stop between the Cultural Triangle and the east coast rather than a place to base yourself.